The year Father Christmas was African
When I tell people I lived in Africa as a kid, they usually ask, “Were your parents missionaries?”
No, in the late 1960s, Dad taught electrical engineering at a college in what was then Nigeria’s second largest city, Ibadan. The U.S. government sent Dad and other professors there to teach the locals technical and business skills. America’s generosity probably had something to do with Nigeria’s massive reserves of oil.
I was 7; my brother, Vince, was a preschooler.
The first December we lived there, Mom took us to visit Father Christmas — as the British call Santa Claus — at Kingsway department store downtown. This wasn’t like popping into Penney’s. First, Mom had to maneuver our VW through traffic slowed by hucksters, livestock, dogs, broken-down cars, children, cyclists and beggars.
Next, after parking, we ran a gauntlet at Kingsway’s doors, where locals mobbed us. Some peddled wares, but most, especially children, had hands outstretched to beg.
Mom told us to ignore them, and we knew the routine. Ex-patriate veterans advised, “If you give to one they all want something. It can get really bad.”
I ignored the beggars, even when a barefoot, bony child reached into my face. Malnutrition had distended his belly as it had those of countless other kids. I pretended not to see those who hobbled toward us on crutches or whose amputated legs forced them to use wooden blocks to help them move.
This act never got easy. Such experiences rightly seared themselves in my memory. Some kids just wanted to touch us, to see if white skin felt different from black.
We entered the cool, modern, western-style department store, and guards kept the mob outside. Months earlier, a bloody military coup had replaced one general with another. Civil war brewed in Biafra 350 miles away. I didn’t know these things then but learned them later.
We anticipated lining up behind other kids as we’d done in the States. On an upper floor, a modest North Pole scene awaited, complete with a child sized train to ride round a track that encircled Father Christmas’s hallowed hall.
A nice woman greeted us and shepherded us to the train. We rode, smiling, no other kids on the train. We disembarked, and the nice lady escorted Vince and me into a dark little tunnel dimly lit with stars.
There was no line. There were no other children.
We entered Father Christmas’s chamber and clambered into his lap. The dim little room featured black walls painted with white Christmas trees. He welcomed and enfolded us like a down comforter. Unlike Santa in the U.S.A., Father Christmas had dark skin. We thought nothing of it. Of course Santa would be black in Africa.
We got down to business and recited our wish lists. Father Christmas gave us each a wrapped gift and a sweet. Someone snapped a photo. We waved good-bye and left that alternate universe for the brightness outside.
In the photo Vince and I look happy. Not so Father Christmas, whose eyes seem stern and prophetic. Minutes earlier he’d gently smiled with us, but he showed a different face for the camera and posterity.
My years in Nigeria were a blessing that has carried with it a responsibility to learn and remember Africa’s challenges. My problems don’t amount to a hill of beans compared to those of people in many parts of the world. I saw what most American kids never see but should — some of it ugly and not festive at all but instead heart-rending. That, too, is a gift.
To this day I hate to see food wasted. I get impatient when someone complains about their food. I desire few material things because I’ve lived among people who’ve cheerfully managed to live with so little. I shop thrift stores even if I can afford better. I feel my discretionary dollars belong elsewhere. The feeling is like survivor guilt and constantly prods me.
Maybe it was only indigestion, but Father Christmas’s penetrating eyes in the photo humble me. They remind me to respect Africa’s people, its descendants whose ancestors came here as slaves, and the continent’s positive influences on our culture, especially our music. Those eyes compel me to learn what the man might have struggled with long after Kingsway folded up the North Pole.
I haven’t returned since we left the country in the late ‘60s. Nigeria is still a wild west sort of place not for the faint of heart. But heart is what Nigeria’s people gave me. And that’s one dandy of a Christmas gift.
Julie Kelemen
Managing Editor